The purpose of this blog is to report on winter climbing conditions in Snowdonia, to keep you lot who like nothing better than climbing ice, snow, frozen turf etc in ridiculously low temps informed!! As well as it being a record of some of my own winter climbing adventures. Feel free to email me any of your own conditions reports & photos you have & I will post them here. The more info on winter conditions the better! email:

Monday, 6 December 2010

North East Spur** III, Y Garn by Joss

Hi Andy,
Heres a reoprt of yesterday for you mate:
Myself and my mate Daz got out on the excellent North East Spur** III on Y Garn yesterday. After following the initial approach rib, we cut across to the Square Tower and took a direct line. Initial easy steps then led to a shallow groove (III) before gaining the crest proper onto "The Neck" and the final crux pitch (III). I think some people miss out the first groove and thats a shame as its just as tricky as the last pitch and makes a good 4 pitches of the whole climb. A superb route at the grade and well worth the stars.
Elsewhere, some friends went into Cwm Cneifion and Idwal, reporting loads of powdery snow in the gullies but very reasonable ice conditions on the Idwal Stream. Pics attached of the first groove, then of Daz topping out with 'the neck' and the approach rib in the background.
All the best
(hope your ankle is getting better, Ive got a similar tendon problem from injury 3 years ago. It does get better with time. Ask your doctor for Hydrochortizone injections, they help)


  1. Can you point me at a route description for this route? It looks good!

  2. It's a pretty obvious from Llyn Idwal. Take the first broad ridge, then traverse left leads to the Square Tower and better climbing up more mixed ground (2nd photo) and continue up the obvious ridge line.
    Did this last February, a great day out. Found a couple of tricky moves around the narrowing near the top (presumably 'The Neck'). Great climb and away from the masses hacking Idwal to death :)