The purpose of this blog is to report on winter climbing conditions in Snowdonia, to keep you lot who like nothing better than climbing ice, snow, frozen turf etc in ridiculously low temps informed!! As well as it being a record of some of my own winter climbing adventures. Feel free to email me any of your own conditions reports & photos you have & I will post them here. The more info on winter conditions the better! email:

Thursday, 9 February 2012

Trinity Face & Cwm Cneifion report

I was out yesterday in beautiful sunshine on Snowdon. Plenty of people out on the Pyg Track which is extremely treacherous the higher you go with compacted snow & ice.
I went onto the Trinity Face where low down the snow was great neve, but the higher on the face I went the poorer snow conditions were. Did Left Hand Trinity, which began very promisingly with good ice & fairly solid snow, but as you got higher, the poorer it became. A stunning day though, which felt very warm in the sun.
Sorry no photos as I forgot to put the battery back in my camera after charging it!


My mate Carl was today out in Cwm Cneifion and emailed me the following info & pics:

'Hey Andy,
Pictures as promised. Tower Slabs were nice on the first pitch, great chewy ice. Then good neve until about two thirds the way up, then crust ontop sugary snow. Dropped down Easy gully which is stepped but solid. Up Hidden Gully, good snow, stepped, but good fun. Left Hand looked like it might go but a team did back off it. Ice in the Kitchen but nothing looked climbable. Beautiful, still, sunny day.

Sunday, 5 February 2012

Keeping up with current climbing conditions

I'm a bit out the loop at the moment but am aware that plenty of routes have been climbed over the last couple of days despite thin conditions which is great news.
Had this email from James Kelly last night:

'Hi Andy

Two of my climbing partners Andy Wilson and Simon Logan were on Idwall stream today said it was a bit thin, very wet all day most of the other routes looked thin for example the ramp. Hope this helps anyone heading down.

James Kelly'

One of the best ways to keep up to date is the UKC Snowdonia Conditions thread which is updated daily with on the ground reports.
Also the UKC Winter Conditions logbook page to see what winter routes climbers have added to their logbooks.

If anyone has any reports later today or tomorrow please could you email me as I'm looking to head out myself over the next couple of days and would be grateful to know whats what.

Friday, 3 February 2012

Cwm Cneifion & Idwal

I managed to get a free afternoon yesterday (Thurs) & was at Ogwen carpark for 1.30pm. My objective was to head up into Cwm Cneifion to have a look at Tower Slabs, Tower Gully & Hidden Gully, although I was aware that reports were saying that snow was still unconsolidated due to continued cold temps & no freese/thaw conditions. When I got into the lower cwm it was fairly apparent that the snow was not going to be in good condition in the higher gullies, & I suspected Tower Slabs would be very poor. So opting for Senior's Ridge instead I headed up in poor snow which was fairly hard going at times. Crampons were essential due to sections of ice, and one axe was sufficient. When high up on the ridge I could see across the cwm & although there is some ice on the lower section of Tower Slabs, it has not yet formed properly. I came back down via the Devil's Kitchen path which was very icy, and had a look at the Idwal ice routes. I am aware that there was a couple of ascents of The Ramp & Idwal Stream yesterday, but from what I saw these are still a fair way off being 'in' condition. The Screen looked at best 50% formed, as did The Ramp & South Gully. I would say that Idwal Stream looked closest to being 'in'. Bear in mind that this was on Thursday & ice should be building daily.
It was a beautiful day to be out, and I am just disappointed it is my only oppurtunity to do so until at least next week.