Amphitheatre Buttress, Craig yr Isfa, Carneddau

Today Colin & I went to do a climb I have wanted to do, but never got around to for a long time. The classic mountaineering route which is Amphitheatre Buttress. A long 293m (960ft) mountain adventure with stunning views and varied climbing including pleasant slabs, interesting corners, easy scrambling & an alpine-esque ridge.
Whichever way you approach the crag from, you will have a sizeable walk in. We opted for the 3.5 mile hike from Llyn Eigiau. In this lake you will find the extremely rare Arctic Char which is a fish only found in cold glaciel lakes, usually in Scotland. It is also one of the few lakes in Wales to have its own natural Brown Trout. In 1925 the dam at Llyn Eigiau burst causing millions of gallons of water to pour down the valley into Coedty reservoir, which in turn burst its banks. The huge volume of water consumed the village of Dolgarrog, killing 17 people and destroying the community.

Top pic: Amphitheatre Buttress route
Bottom pic: The break in the dam

Christmas Curry at Tremadog with Col

Today Colin & I headed down to climb on the excellent dolerite cliffs at Tremadog. South facing and at low altitude Tremadog provided excellent all year round climbing & plenty of classic three star routes.
We started with Hail Bebe (V Diff**), which provides great top pitches with good exposure.
Next was Oberon (S 4b*). Colin led the first 4b pitch on the initial slab which proved to be the toughest part of the route.
For our last climb we did Christmas Curry (HS 4a***), which is a deserved three star route. We seemed to do a combination of the Micah Finish & Original Finish, so our own hybrid. I led the final pitch which provided big exposure.
We had an all round great day out in fantastic weather.

Top pic: View of Christmas Curry area from Eric's Cafe, with compulsary VW Transporter van!
Bottom Pic: Colin about to belay me on the final pitch of Christmas Curry.

Twilight Tower Buttress

Today I met up with Woodsy from the UKC forum at Twilight Tower Buttress nr Llangollen on the Upper Tier . It had just stopped drizzling, and the rock was good & dry. There are some outstanding routes on this crag, and unlike other Clwyd Limestone climbing venues is not at all polished.
We managed 6 climbs which were: Sloth (V-Diff*), Pride (V-Diff), Helme's Highway (S 4a), Funeral Corner (HS 4a**), Loran (S 4a*) & Skullion (VS 4b).
The pick of the bunch was definetly Funeral Corner (HS 4a**) which to quote the Rockfax guidebook is 'A little gem situated high above the valley, at the top of Twilight Tower Buttress. A perfect corner which is a delight to climb. Just a shame it is so short'

Top pic: From the car looking up at the whole Twilight area.
Bottom Pic: Twilight Tower Buttress.

Grooved Arete, Tryfan East Face

Today I mey Colin at Ogwen, and we decided on having a crack at the classic Grooved Arete (HVD***) on Tryfan's east face. It was very hot today, so not really the day to forget your drink (but Colin did!).
Grooved Arete climbs up the right hand side of North Buttress, and is easily spotted by the letters GA scratched into the rock.
It is an 810ft/244m HVDiff (Hard Very Difficult) 8 pitch big mountain route. One of the finest mountain routes anywhere in Wales.
We alternated leads and enjoyed every pitch. Topped out after four and a three quarter hours climbing.
A thoroughly enjoyable climb.

Top pic: Colin topping out after 810ft & four and three quarter hours climbing.
Bottom pic: Taken on descent, looking up at the middle couple of pitches of Grooved Arete.

The Roaches, Western Grit

Today was my first experience of climbing on grit at The Roaches in the Peak District. Greg who I met via the MLTA forum, knows the area well, and arranged to show me a few classic routes.
We headed to Roaches-Upper in blazing sunshine. Firstly I lead Right Route (V-Diff) which is listed as 2 pitches in the guidebook, but we opted to do in one pitch.
Next on our list was the classic Black & Tans (S 4a), where Greg lead the first pitch & I lead the second.
We next moved over to the Wombat Area where Greg led the slabby Rooster (V-Diff) & then I lead Chicken Run (HVD)
It was a good afternoons climbing, and I will definetly be back there soon!

Pic 1: Black & Tans area on Roaches-Upper. Unknown climbers on Saul's Crack
Pic 2: Looking down on Greg from the top of Right Route
Pic 3: Greg pulling up at the top of Rooster
Pic 3: Unknown climber on Central Route

Slanting Buttress, Lliwedd

Today Sean Mercer & I met up to climb Slanting Buttress Ridge Route on Lliwedd. It is a 700 foot Diff mountain route with some quality climbing and a real feeling of exposure. We soloed the first 3 pitches or so, then roped up and pitched the rest, alternating leads. The crux moves seem to be at around the halfway mark, when you take a bold step out left, overlooking Slanting Gully then move up a fairly featureless slab. However we managed to go slightly astray from the guidebook route on the second to last pitch, and I ended up leading an approx Severe grade pitch which felt hard.
An all round good mountain day.

Top pic: Lliwedd. Slanting Buttress Ridge Route starts between the distinct white quartz slashes on the bottom right of the photo.
Bottom pic: Sean on the ridge.

Soloing at World's End today

Had a couple of hours free this afternoon, so I headed back to World's End for a bit of soloing. It was another perfect climbing day down there, about 18 deg c, and a light breeze.
I soloed Squirm (Diff) & A'cheval (V-diff) which are both on the Open Book Area ,Wither (Diff) which is on the Taerg Wall Area & Nose (V-Diff) on the Lower Tier.
I also had a good look at a few climbs I want to have a pop at over the next few weeks, but not soloing!

Top pic: The 3 tiers of World's End
Bottom pic: Wither on Taerg Wall Area

World's End, nr Llangollen

Perfect day for climbing today. Davey & I headed down to World's End for some sunny crags with beautiful views. I lead Incompetance (HVD) & End Flake (HVD), and Davey lead Ashgrove (V-Diff). Would have been nice to do more routes, but Davey had to be back home for the school run.
Heading back to World's End on thursday, so will get a few more routes knocked off then.

Top pic: Beautiful day at World's End
Bottom pic: Davey leading Ashgrove

Maeshafn, Clwyd Limestone

Tonight I have been out climbing at Maeshafn (nr Mold) on Clwyd Limestone with Davey, Mike & Ethan.
Between us we climbed Shattered Crack (HS 4a), Sling (HS 4a), Dandy Lion (HS 4b) & Elephant Crack (S 4a).

PIC: Davey climbing in the dark on the crux move of Elephant Crack.

Idwal Slabs

I met up with Mark today, and we headed for Idwal Slabs. We first climbed the 5 pitches of Faith (V-Diff), then branched off to the right and climbed Javelin Gully (HS). Dry rock & sun at last!

Top pic: Idwal slabs in perfect climbing conditions.
Bottom Pic: Mark (in green) & unknown climber on final pitch of Faith where it conmverges with Hope.

Tryfan Fach

Today Davey & I decided to ignore the weather forecast and take a drive to Snowdonia to climb on Tryfan Fach (Little Tryfan). As it turns out the forecast was spot on, and it poured with rain all day.
However we first climbed Tryfan Fach Arete (Mod/Grade 3 scramble), then we climbed Crack 3 (Diff) again in heavy rain.

Top pic: Climbers on Tryfan Fach Arete, and Davey stood just to the right of Crack 3.
Bottom Pic: Davey leading on Crack 3

Milestone Buttress

Today Colin & I were out climbing on Milestone Buttress, Tryfan. We arrived to a near winter scene much to our suprise, and first climbed Rowan Route (Diff) in the hail & rain.
As the weather dried up in the afternoon we then climbed Direct Route (V-Diff), and incorporated the second pitch of Superdirect (HVS).

Top pic: Looking up Superdirect & Direct Route
Bottom pic: A suprise winter scene!

OK, so winter not QUITE over yet!!

So we are now into our SIXTH MONTH in a row of winter climbing in Snowdonia!!


I have just had another report in from Carl D (who seems to pretty much LIVE in the mountains at the moment!!) Thanks Carl

Hi Andy,

Just switched on phone and got your text. Went up Crib Goch in the end, I did put a post on the UKC forum. It was OK (I think we've been spoilt) but snow was powdery on the first half so lots of crampon scraping! There's alot of snow about and the windblown drifts are over a metre in places. The second half of route on the approach to Crib y Ddysgl is better snow with plenty of old snow which is bomber rock solid neve. Rimeing on the north side of Crib Goch. I was going to do the horseshoe but with all the soft snow about the whole route was pretty hard work so I came down via the Pyg track. In places the snow is consolidating so it could be better after tomorrow. There's ice starting to form in the drainage above the Pyg. Interestingly a snow bank probably over a metre deep had avalanched off wet grass, across the Pyg path, just before junction with Crib Goch track, lots of debris. The Trinity Gullies look full of snow so could be good in couple of days. Looks like a little warmer tomorrow then colder Sat/Sun. Going to work tomorrow then going to try and get out on Sat and Sun. Winter isn't over yet!
It was pretty closed in so not many pics, one of the rime on the ridge and one of great gully on the way down.

Cheers,

Carl.

Winter Photos by Huw Gilbert

Andy,

Sorry for the slow reply but here are some photos from the winter. There're all from the South and in order are Barn Door on Cader and Maesglasau Falls, both taken in that fabulous cold spell in January. The last photo is West Gully on Cader taken in early March, arguably the best conditions of the season.

Thanks for your efforts with your blog, great stuff.

Cheers,

Huw.

WILL ADD EVERYONES PHOTOS SOON, BLOG PLAYING UP A BIT AT THE MOMENT.

Winter Roundup by Mike Peacock

Andy

For your blog request....

Well, this was my first winter taking the step from winter walking to more vertical things, and I've loved every bit of it. One highlight was having an easy introduction to ice on Cneifion Stream followed by Easy Route in glorious sunshine. That was the day I really learned how exposed easy snow slopes feel when you're 150m up them on bullet hard neve! An ascent of the Fase Gribin and Y Gribin was another great day, in bad visibility and with deep snow down to Ogwen. I think my favourite day came on essentially the last decent weekend. I had a solo exploratory venture up the uncharted North Face of Y Foel Goch (the previously unnamed one near Gallt yr Ogof) on snow and ice, and topped out under beautiful blue skies. The mountain will certainly be worthy of another visit under a decent freeze.

All the people I've bumped into in the cwms have been friendly and talkative, offering advice and tips, and all in all I think I've learned a lot. Roll on winter 2010/11!

Cheers,

Mike