Slanting Buttress, Lliwedd

Today Sean Mercer & I met up to climb Slanting Buttress Ridge Route on Lliwedd. It is a 700 foot Diff mountain route with some quality climbing and a real feeling of exposure. We soloed the first 3 pitches or so, then roped up and pitched the rest, alternating leads. The crux moves seem to be at around the halfway mark, when you take a bold step out left, overlooking Slanting Gully then move up a fairly featureless slab. However we managed to go slightly astray from the guidebook route on the second to last pitch, and I ended up leading an approx Severe grade pitch which felt hard.
An all round good mountain day.

Top pic: Lliwedd. Slanting Buttress Ridge Route starts between the distinct white quartz slashes on the bottom right of the photo.
Bottom pic: Sean on the ridge.

Soloing at World's End today

Had a couple of hours free this afternoon, so I headed back to World's End for a bit of soloing. It was another perfect climbing day down there, about 18 deg c, and a light breeze.
I soloed Squirm (Diff) & A'cheval (V-diff) which are both on the Open Book Area ,Wither (Diff) which is on the Taerg Wall Area & Nose (V-Diff) on the Lower Tier.
I also had a good look at a few climbs I want to have a pop at over the next few weeks, but not soloing!

Top pic: The 3 tiers of World's End
Bottom pic: Wither on Taerg Wall Area

World's End, nr Llangollen

Perfect day for climbing today. Davey & I headed down to World's End for some sunny crags with beautiful views. I lead Incompetance (HVD) & End Flake (HVD), and Davey lead Ashgrove (V-Diff). Would have been nice to do more routes, but Davey had to be back home for the school run.
Heading back to World's End on thursday, so will get a few more routes knocked off then.

Top pic: Beautiful day at World's End
Bottom pic: Davey leading Ashgrove

Maeshafn, Clwyd Limestone

Tonight I have been out climbing at Maeshafn (nr Mold) on Clwyd Limestone with Davey, Mike & Ethan.
Between us we climbed Shattered Crack (HS 4a), Sling (HS 4a), Dandy Lion (HS 4b) & Elephant Crack (S 4a).

PIC: Davey climbing in the dark on the crux move of Elephant Crack.

Idwal Slabs

I met up with Mark today, and we headed for Idwal Slabs. We first climbed the 5 pitches of Faith (V-Diff), then branched off to the right and climbed Javelin Gully (HS). Dry rock & sun at last!

Top pic: Idwal slabs in perfect climbing conditions.
Bottom Pic: Mark (in green) & unknown climber on final pitch of Faith where it conmverges with Hope.

Tryfan Fach

Today Davey & I decided to ignore the weather forecast and take a drive to Snowdonia to climb on Tryfan Fach (Little Tryfan). As it turns out the forecast was spot on, and it poured with rain all day.
However we first climbed Tryfan Fach Arete (Mod/Grade 3 scramble), then we climbed Crack 3 (Diff) again in heavy rain.

Top pic: Climbers on Tryfan Fach Arete, and Davey stood just to the right of Crack 3.
Bottom Pic: Davey leading on Crack 3

Milestone Buttress

Today Colin & I were out climbing on Milestone Buttress, Tryfan. We arrived to a near winter scene much to our suprise, and first climbed Rowan Route (Diff) in the hail & rain.
As the weather dried up in the afternoon we then climbed Direct Route (V-Diff), and incorporated the second pitch of Superdirect (HVS).

Top pic: Looking up Superdirect & Direct Route
Bottom pic: A suprise winter scene!

OK, so winter not QUITE over yet!!

So we are now into our SIXTH MONTH in a row of winter climbing in Snowdonia!!


I have just had another report in from Carl D (who seems to pretty much LIVE in the mountains at the moment!!) Thanks Carl

Hi Andy,

Just switched on phone and got your text. Went up Crib Goch in the end, I did put a post on the UKC forum. It was OK (I think we've been spoilt) but snow was powdery on the first half so lots of crampon scraping! There's alot of snow about and the windblown drifts are over a metre in places. The second half of route on the approach to Crib y Ddysgl is better snow with plenty of old snow which is bomber rock solid neve. Rimeing on the north side of Crib Goch. I was going to do the horseshoe but with all the soft snow about the whole route was pretty hard work so I came down via the Pyg track. In places the snow is consolidating so it could be better after tomorrow. There's ice starting to form in the drainage above the Pyg. Interestingly a snow bank probably over a metre deep had avalanched off wet grass, across the Pyg path, just before junction with Crib Goch track, lots of debris. The Trinity Gullies look full of snow so could be good in couple of days. Looks like a little warmer tomorrow then colder Sat/Sun. Going to work tomorrow then going to try and get out on Sat and Sun. Winter isn't over yet!
It was pretty closed in so not many pics, one of the rime on the ridge and one of great gully on the way down.

Cheers,

Carl.

Winter Photos by Huw Gilbert

Andy,

Sorry for the slow reply but here are some photos from the winter. There're all from the South and in order are Barn Door on Cader and Maesglasau Falls, both taken in that fabulous cold spell in January. The last photo is West Gully on Cader taken in early March, arguably the best conditions of the season.

Thanks for your efforts with your blog, great stuff.

Cheers,

Huw.

WILL ADD EVERYONES PHOTOS SOON, BLOG PLAYING UP A BIT AT THE MOMENT.

Winter Roundup by Mike Peacock

Andy

For your blog request....

Well, this was my first winter taking the step from winter walking to more vertical things, and I've loved every bit of it. One highlight was having an easy introduction to ice on Cneifion Stream followed by Easy Route in glorious sunshine. That was the day I really learned how exposed easy snow slopes feel when you're 150m up them on bullet hard neve! An ascent of the Fase Gribin and Y Gribin was another great day, in bad visibility and with deep snow down to Ogwen. I think my favourite day came on essentially the last decent weekend. I had a solo exploratory venture up the uncharted North Face of Y Foel Goch (the previously unnamed one near Gallt yr Ogof) on snow and ice, and topped out under beautiful blue skies. The mountain will certainly be worthy of another visit under a decent freeze.

All the people I've bumped into in the cwms have been friendly and talkative, offering advice and tips, and all in all I think I've learned a lot. Roll on winter 2010/11!

Cheers,

Mike

By Simon Wright:

Andy,

I'd just like to thank you for your excellent work this winter in reference to the Andy Mountains website. I have checked the site nearly every day and have found the info extremely useful. Sadly I only got out once this year due to work, badly timed holidays and very unlucky weather!

But thanks again Andy for your persistence and obvious love for the welsh winter climbing, its great to see and hopefully we will get the same winter next year!

Simon Wright

From Ali Andrews:

Andy

Thought I'd help with your request.

It was my first winter climbing this year. I got the kit at Christmas time and was really pleased when you agreed to meet up with me to show me around Sgt's Gully. It was a great first experience and led to a few more days on the ice, memorably at Ogwen, a very busy Idwal Stream, a day on the Glyders, walking up Snowdon after 2ft of powder in a complete white out and meeting other very hopeful people, and a final solo up the side of Snowdon from the pass. Some amazing Alpine weather and some really cold, windy, snowy days too!

I love the ice, and although I'm back to rock climbing now, hope to be able to come up again next year from my new base in Cornwall.


Ali

Winter 2009/2010 by Carl

Hi Andy,

Just saw your request.....difficult to know where to start! Due to the fishing being so poor this year so far I've taken advantage of alot of time off since New Year. Spent more time in the hills than ever before, 10 days in Fort William at start of Jan and a week in Cairngorm middle of Feb, filled in with all the days in Snowdonia inbetween. I've just treated myself to an apple tv and have just put on the Welsh shots to remind me of all the good bits. I was talking to a friend I climb with in Scotland today and he said I should try and log stuff. So what have I done route wise this winter, Right Hand Trinity x 2, Little gully (Trinity face), The Ramp (Cwm Glas) gained by an undocumented III corner (probably been done lots time before though!), Sargeant's gully, Parseley fern gully, Hidden gully x 3, Tower Slabs x 4, Broad gully (Ffynnon Lloer), Bristly Ridge, Crib Goch x 3 or 4, Central Gully (Glyder Fach), Pinnacle gully (Craig yr Ysfa), Avalanche Gully (Craig yr Ysfa), Amphitheatre gully (Craig yr Ysfa), Eastern Gully (Ladders), Pyramid Gully, Play School x 2, North Ridge Tryfan.

I think the best all round route was Play School on the Ladders, it has a bit of everything, three pitches of grade III ice, snow gully, a little traverse and a great easy ridge to finish on. I did this route first with Mike who I hadn't met before as he was looking for a buddy the previous evening so I replied to his post. We were treated to an Alpine Ladders, wall to wall blue skies, no wind, ice everywhere. Did Pyramid with some great pitches of IV ice and topped out at 1200, so it would have been rude to go home, Play School was calling. Door to door a 12 hour day but what a day it was with great company. Second time on Play School was with a friend Jo, after we spent a night out on the Carneddau - planned - amazing sunset and sunrise. We were both pretty weary descending to the foot of the ladders on the second day, but again were treated with Alpine conditions. We buried all of the overnight kit on the ridge save lugging it around all day. The direct start to the foot of Play School was a very spicey III and Jo's first foray onto sustained ice, in at the deep end, but she climbed well despite a little hot ache action. We topped out into more sunshine, dug up our kit and trekked back to the van in Cwm Eigiau, an epic two days.

I really liked Right hand Trinity, grade II snow with a couple of harder icy corners and that awkward chockstone at the bottom. Good bunch of tat under the chockstone which was handy. Second time I did it there was a 4 foot cornice at the normal exit so I had to traverse left where it diminished which in poor snow was a little unnerveing.

Through the winter I became alot more familiar with the area and there's loads of stuff I'd like to have a crack at next year, fingers crossed for another icy winter. I've attached a few shots, some of them may be useful.

Take it easy and hopefully get on a bit of rock with you soon.

Carl.

A request

I am away for a week in the Yorkshire Dales until saturday the 27th on a family holiday.
When I come back I am presuming that winter in Snowdonia will be over, and I am going to put a summary of this winter's action (as I have found it) on the blog.

Please please email me with summaries your winter experience, wether it be memorable climbs, good friends made, stunning photographs taken, whatever... and I promise to put it here on the blog.

Thanks.

Tower Slabs refusing to let go! (by Carl)

Had an email just now which read the following:
Hi Andy,

After a couple of days back at work to discover the fishing is just as bad as it was a month ago and strong wind forcast I had another day off. Couldn't resist a swift wander into Cneifion. I picked up one axe but went back in the house to get the other one, just in case! 14 degrees in the valley but I could see that big fat ice on the last pitch of left hand on the drive in, so I thought maybe a chance of something on Tower Slabs. Amazed to see its still hanging on, so trudged up through soft snow, but not up to your knees soft. The first pitch was pretty good, and there's bits above there too. The ice is soft but that did make for great placements. Water is running behind so I don't suppose it'll survive the weekend. There was bits falling off left hand across the cwm. The top half of it is still there but there was a stream running over the bottom half. Right hand also pretty stripped as per photo. Very windy at top where it was a little depressing to see plenty of rock and turf uncovered. Made a quick exit down Gribin as it started to rain. I did feel a bit of a muppet making my way to the car in rain with two axes on my back!

Carl